If sandwiches were judged by the number of napkins you go through when you eat them, the way fires are judged by alarms, then the fried bologna sandwich served at lunchtime at the new Divisadero restaurant Brenda’s Meat and Three would be a sandwich with five napkins are . A thick slice of baked bologna from local German outfit Saag’s — meatier and more interesting than the Oscar Meyer slices of youth, but with the same round, salty flavor — is nestled between soft buns and slathered with a generous amount of chilli spreads. Slices of tomato and pickle add texture and flavorful counterpoints to the cheese and meat attack. The sandwich falls apart within minutes of biting it and you definitely get the tangy orange sauce all over your fingers and face, but like most childhood relics, this food’s appeal is primitive and enduring.
Brenda’s meat and three
919 Divisadero, 926-8657,